Into the desert

18 Oct 2010

From our window we could see the local laundry service:

The chap in the top right is standing in the 'washing machine'

Today was the big ride into the desert. Having discounted the idea of camels (Olivia’s allergy to them) and a jeep (on the basis of cost) we settled on a much cheaper and more flexible option of riding into the desert. We had found a place the previous day that would hire one out overnight for a fraction of the price of a jeep and he also assured us the roads would be quiet and easy to navigate.

After a trip round town filling up our new Indian lunchbox we headed back to the hotel for a bite to eat just before we left. Right on time the motorbike chap arrived with our steed – a 97cc Hero Honda Splendor ‘Plus’; although only a tiny little engine, the machine puts out about 8 bhp and easily does 50 kph – our cruising speed. Getting two helmets took some serious persuasion but I eventually won through, which was lucky since Olivia looks the bees knees in a helmet! HAHA!

looking good!

With all kinds of junk strapped onto the bike it started to look more local. Looking at the back you can see our ‘lunch box’ which caused much amusement amongst the locals – apparently it isn’t all that cool to use one any more. We thought it was pretty cool!

All the gear

The roads proved to be every bit as good as we were promised – much better than the UK in most cases. Perfectly smooth and car free, an absolute delight. Only problem was the searing heat, but that was expected since we were heading into the desert...

Bada Bagh in the background

The first place we visited was a memorial garden called Bada Bagh where many royals are buried.

The old meets the new - the wind turbines power the flood lights and military camps at the boarder (Ind/Pak)

Taken standing inside the monument

One of the things one has to watch out for when riding in India are the animals and these goats seemed to be oblivious to the road and the vehicles on it. (Maybe it’s because we were on a put-put!)

Next on our list of sights was a Jain temple. This was the first stumbling block as far as navigation goes however; it was just off our map. After asking around we found the town the temple was supposed to be in, there was however no sign whatsoever of the temple. A group of local boys spotted us and came running over to offer their help. They eventually understood what we were looking for and pointed frantically up a dirt track behind us. We gave it a shot since we had no other ideas, it came to a seeing dead end though so we turned back to the main road having written off visiting the temple. The boys had walked part way down the path by this point and told us it was down this track. They showed us down to the point we had turned around, then pointed to a gap in hedge where we were to ride through! We did and lo and behold; a big Jain temple.

Since time was now pushing on, us not wanting to get to the dunes after the sunset, decided not to bother looking around the temple; we could actually see most of it without going inside.

Shortly after we left we encountered the next oblivious herd of animals. Since they don’t give a damn about traffic, you have to weave your way through them.

Moooove (that was for you Mum!)

The Sam Sand Dunes are about 40km from Jaisalmer and were well sign posted so we simple pottered along the road, hardly seeing another car en-route. We knew we had reached the desert when we saw these guys:

They were the first of many, many camels. Carrying on down the road we started to look for somewhere to stay.

The road to Sam (dunes in the distance)

 The first place we asked at had some reasonable looking tents, but were charging far too much. The next place was charging 4000 rupees a night (58 pounds)!! Slightly disheartened by this we found a third place which finally had a much more sensible rate. We decided to take a thatched hut rather than a tent – the shower looked better and boy did we need it after the ride into the desert!

This is the type of hut the locals in the area live in

Having settled down and dumped our stuff in the hut we wandered out to the dunes, trying to avoid the noisy Indian tourists also there for the sunset. There are a surprising number of animals living in the desert; including this lizard.

The sand dunes were really great and by this time beginning to cool down too.

Having found the optimum sunset watching point we cracked open our lunchbox and grabbed a snack.

Our 'tiffin'

With some time to kill we started the pre-requisite series of posed photos required when you go to the dunes:

Having not taken the camel trek option we were pleased to find that camel paraded themselves right past where we were sitting – the best of both worlds?

At last, after much jumping about the dunes, we finally got what we had really come for; a sunset.

After a thali dinner we were sitting around waiting for the evening entertainment to begin when the owner of the camp asked if we wanted to see his new room. With nothing better to do we followed him and were shown this:

Not to my tastes...

Apparently making the room seriously tacky allows him to charge four times as much as a non-pimped room???? Strange bunch!

We returned to the performance area and continued to be the subject of interest for all the Indians. The boys from the school trip that was there were particularly annoying with even Miss Olivia losing her cool at one point!

The evening entertainment was some singing that definitely needed an accustomed ear to enjoy and some dancing whose routines were a bit rough round the edges to say the least. The one girl who could dance did have some good party tricks though.

She was presented with a stack of pots and put them on her head and then continued dancing around, not dropping them once.

Steady, steady...

She then placed a 50 rupee note sticking up in the sand and proceeded to pick it up with her teeth! Impressive stunt.

The evening entertainment was on the whole not very entertaining at all so we retired to our room and waited for the wailing to finish. At last it did and even better everyone bar one family left. Peace and quiet at last.

Weirdly, after dark loads of frogs came out. Since Olivia hadn’t seen the frogs, I picked one up to show her/throw at her... she didn’t seem to find it funny for some reason?!